How and Why to Compost Your Leaves This Fall

Chickens are excellent helpers for shredding leaves for compost and they add an extra source of nitrogen.

As we wave farewell to summer and enter the beautiful season of autumn. Leaves are starting to change colors, and soon enough they will drop, rendering the trees bare. Now is the time to start exploring the idea of composting!

Composting your leaves is a worthwhile endeavor for many reasons. It is nature’s best mulch. By composting now, you will be able to reap the benefits of your hard labor either this spring or next! It will also save you money on commercial fertilizers and protect the environment as well.

Compost is made up of organic matter. It serves as food for microorganisms, and keeps the soil in healthy, balanced condition. Do your part, and keep leaves out of landfills. Use them to improve your own garden instead! 

STEP 1: Choosing the spot – Regardless of experience, choosing the right spot to set up your compost pile might be the most crucial part. You will need to find a spot with a few key elements. It should be shady and moist, in order to allow for decomposition to take place, which is ultimately the breakdown of the leaves. It would also a good idea to set up a wire gate surrounding the compost area of choice, so that your leaves do not blow around.

STEP 2: Collect and shred your leaves – Leaves can be easily shredded with a lawn mower, but there are other options too - chickens! If you happen to have chickens, pile up your leaves in a contained area, and let the chickens roam on top. They will have the leaves shredded in a few days and will add an extra source of nitrogen.

This step is not to be overlooked. Shredding your leaves will help them to break down faster and prevent them from matting together. Matted leaves decrease the amount of water and air penetration, which in turn, slows the decomposition process.

STEP 3: Be Patient – Composting leaves is not a quick process, but your efforts will not go to waste! Hopefully by the time spring rolls around you will be able to spread your transformed compost around your garden as mulch.


TIPS: If you don’t want to do a leaf-only compost which is referred to as leaf mold, here are a few things you can try. Add lawn clippings and/or nitrogen rich sources (i.e manure, which works great). There are also many resources that can help guide you into becoming a compost expert.  So if you are interested in learning more about how to compost, I highly suggest that you set aside some time for more in depth research.

Article contributed by guest Garden Blogger Betsy Thompson.

Sources:
http://compostguide.com/how-to-choose-a-compost-site/
http://www.the-compost-gardener.com/composting-leaves.html#hard
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z-c5E2dtk0Q
http://www.gardeners.com/how-to/put-fall-leaves-to-work/5402.html
http://www.leaveleavesalone.org/Leaf_Mulching_Tips.html

Beneficial Bees: How to Help Our Essential Pollinators

The Arboretum is full of flowering plants during the spring, summer, and fall that attract important pollinators, such as bees. Walking through the Rose Garden in the height of summer, you will find yourself surrounded by a constant hum as bees busy themselves finding nectar and collecting pollen. Don’t be afraid. Unlike some wasps, bees are not aggressive, and won’t bother you unless you’re posing a threat to them or their nests. Most males don’t even have stingers.

About three quarters of all flowering plants require pollination in order to set seed and fruit. This includes foods we eat every day. In recent years, honey bees have been at risk due to the unexplained phenomenon of Colony Collapse Disorder. Our native bees are in decline as well, from various threats such as pesticide use, habitat loss, and disease.

Here are some ways that you can help our beneficial bee friends:

• Create a Pesticide-Free Pollinator Garden: Creating a pollinator garden requires that you have flowering plants from spring through fall and that you don’t use harmful pesticides. Native plants work best. The Arboretum often has classes available to help you get started. The Remarkable Plants for Non-Stop Color workshop on October 1st will focus on pollinator-friendly plants that don’t require pesticides.
   
• Build a Mason Bee Nest House: Mason bees lay eggs in small cavities, such as hollowed out stems, and seal them off with plant material or mud that forms a mortar-like barrier to protect their eggs. You can learn how to build your own bee house for these native, non-stinging males and non-aggressive females, by taking the Mason Bee Nest Box Workshop on November 7th.
   
• Start Your Own Beehive: Beekeeping requires a lot of research and a long-term commitment, however you get delicious honey as a result! A great way to introduce yourself to beekeeping and decide if it’s right for you is to take Beekeeping 101: A Workshop for the Bee-Curious on October 10th.
   
• Educate Yourself: There are many online resources and books available on bees, beekeeping, and pollinator gardening. You can find some excellent books, as well as other bee-themed items, in The Shop at the Arboretum. You can learn more about bees online at the Xerces Society for Invertebrate Conservation and Bumblebee Conservation Trust websites. You can help monitor bumblebee populations by participating in a citizen science project called Bumble Bee Watch. Also, the annual Philadelphia Honey Festival provides many fun ways to learn more about honey bees. This year the festival runs September 11-13, 2015.

Article contributed by Kristen Bower, Guest Garden Blogger for Morris Arboretum

3 Shade Trees for Small Spaces

Magnolia stellata – star magnolia

Magnolia virginiana (sweetbay magnolia)

Stewartia psuedocamellia (Japanese stewartia)

Nothing beats sitting under a spreading shade tree on a lazy summer day, enjoying something fresh from the garden, or an ice-cold drink. Many of us do not have the space for a full-size shade tree, or prefer not to have a large tree by the patio or close to the house. But, do not worry, there are plenty of options of small to medium-sized trees that fit the bill of providing shade in the garden, while also being in scale with smaller spaces, and not overwhelming the area in which they are planted.

By medium-sized trees, I am referring to trees that grow to between 15-25 feet within approximately 20 years. Think of these as plants that grow to between one and two stories tall, and you can get a sense of how they might work in your landscape.

With so many options to choose from, it is hard to pick just a few. Here are three to get you started:

1. Magnolia stellata – star magnolia: native to Japan, it is one of the earliest magnolias to flower, with bright white flowers in late March and early April.
2. Magnolia virginiana (sweetbay magnolia): one of the most adaptable magnolias, of all of the trees on this list, it is probably the best for urban conditions or heavy soils. Sweetbay is notable for its small, but fragrant, flowers in mid-June. Some varieties (M. virginiana var. australis) such as ‘Milton’, ‘Henry Hicks’, and ‘Green Bay’ are evergreen, holding their leaves throughout the winter.
3. Stewartia psuedocamellia (Japanese stewartia): is probably the most finicky plant on this list, and one that prefers a rich, well drained soil, high in organic matter. However, this is a plant that rewards throughout the year, with beautiful exfoliating bark, early summer flowers, and fantastic fall color. If you can grow this plant, it is one of the best to have in the garden.

Happy planting, and sit back and enjoy for years to come.


For even more small tree suggestions and information, join our new tour on Saturdays (June 13, 20, 27), Small Trees For Small Spaces.

Article contributed by Anthony Aiello - The Gayle E. Maloney Director of Horticulture & Curator, Morris Arboretum of the University of Pennsylvania
Photos: Paul W. Meyer

The Right Plant in the Right Place

Hostas (several varieties pictured behind bench) thrive in partial shade.

  

Astilbe

Coleus

Does all the fresh new growth and color of spring have you inspired to plant something?

Whether you are creating a new garden or want to add additional plants to an existing one keep in mind if the place is right for the plant. We all have our favorites and want them in our gardens, however we can be very disappointed in the results if not planted in the proper environment it requires. Most of us know about full sun, part shade or full shade, but many plants love hot dry conditions or kept cool and moist or hate wet feet. When shopping for plants know where you plan to plant them and the conditions of the area.


Color for Shade
Colorful plants in shady spots are always difficult. Try hosta, which comes in blues, greens and stripes. Coleus is a wonderful plant for color in a shady spot and lots of variety. Try the large Kong coleus for a dramatic effect. Astilbe is an old favorite that thrives in partial shade and packs a colorful punch.


The Right Plant in the Right Place will help you have the garden you dream of become a reality. Happy planting!


Pick up the perfect plants for your backyard at our Annual Plant Sale, May 8 (Members Only) and 9 (Public). Our knowledgeable staff will be on hand to answer all your garden questions!



Article contributed by Susan J. Choma, Certified Master Gardener

5 Cherry Trees for Gardeners

Cherry Trees have a very fine texture and even in autumn they reward gardeners with excellent fall color.  There are an immense number of varieties but the main ones for gardeners to consider are:

• Prunus ‘Okame’: the Okame cherry is one of the most commonly planted cherries and the first to bloom in Philadelphia - usually in late March or early April.  It has dark pink flowers that fade to pale pink as they open.  It grows to 25 feet at maturity.  Okame was introduced to the United States through the Morris Arboretum in the 1940s.
• Prunus subhirtella ‘Pendula’: the weeping Higan cherry is the most common of the weeping cherries and one of the most graceful garden trees.  Its small April-blooming flowers are pale pink and cover the branches, giving the plants a beautiful overall look.  These plants grow to 25-30 feet.
• Prunus ‘Snofozam’:  SNOW FOUNTAINS weeping cherry is a slower growing and smaller weeping tree, making it useful in smaller spaces.  Its branches are held more stiffly than the weeping Higan cherry, but the overall effect is very attractive.  Its small white flowers completely cover the branches, making a fantastic display.
• Prunus x yedoensis, the Yoshino cherry is probably the best known flowering cherry, famous for the display surrounding the Tidal Basin in Washington, DC.  This is a medium-sized tree that will grow to 40 feet.  Its flowers are pink in bud, opening to a pale pink-white at full flower.  A common variety of Yoshino cherry is Daybreak (‘Akebono’) known for its soft-pink, semi-double flowers that cover the branches. 
• Prunus sargentii: Sargent cherry is native to northern Japan and is among the hardiest and largest of the flowering cherries. Its single rose-pink flowers emerge in mid April before the foliage and at the same time as the Yoshino cherries. The deep red-brown lustrous bark of Sargent cherry adds interest throughout the year.

Come explore Morris Arboretum's cherry blossom collection in bloom this April. Learn More

Grow Your Own Lettuce Bowl!

Need inspiration for a quick, easy spring gardening project? Grow your own lettuce bowl!

This  project is easy-peasy and fun to do with budding gardeners.

Hanging baskets with coco fiber liners are easy to come by at garden centers and big box stores. Add some soil-less potting mix, sow lettuce seeds and cover, water and wait. You won't wait long, as lettuce will quickly germinate in cool spring weather. By snipping the outer leaves and leaving the central ones, lettuce plants will continue to grow, giving you a longer harvest. If you want to prolong your growing season, look for heat tolerant varieties that take longer to bolt- flower and go to seed. If you have lettuce seeds left over from previous years, sow thickly, as germination of old seed is reduced.

Basket culture for lettuce or spinach is ideal, as you can position your basket close to your kitchen door, or easily move it to a sunny spot for best growth. Elevating your crop keeps uninvited four-footed garden guests away from your succulent greens.

So, now what to do with all that lettuce? Check out our upcoming culinary class, Savory Summer Soups and Salads on May 28! Register Here  

Article by Louise D. Clarke, Bloomfield Farm Section Leader at Morris Arboretum

Spring Tasks: Prune Forsythia

As the forsythia finishes its bloom in mid-to-late April, it is a good time for major renovation pruning. If it is completely overgrown, it is OK to cut it completely to the ground.  It will quickly re-sprout, in time to set buds later in the summer for next springs flowers.

If less drastic measures are needed, cut 1/3 to 1/2 of the branches to the ground, to encourage regeneration. Also, lightly cut back remaining branches for form.

Avoid shearing forsythia and encourage an open natural form.

Photo: Judy Miller

Photo: Judy Miller

Photo: Judy Miller

Rejuvenative Pruning of Mature Shrubs

by Anthony S. Aiello, The Gayle E. Maloney Director of Horticulture and Curator

If you are like me, you never have enough time to accomplish all of your gardening tasks throughout the year, and eventually those well-behaved shrubs in your garden grow beyond their desired size and start to crowd other plants in the garden. The beauty of growing and pruning deciduous shrubs is that they can be maintained at a desired size through rejuvenative pruning.

The first thing to keep in mind when pruning shrubs is to have the proper (and properly sharpened) tools. These will include a good pair of hand pruners, a pair of loppers, and a hand saw. When it comes to hand pruners, I prefer a good pair of bypass, or scissor pruners, that make smoother and cleaner cuts than anvil type pruners. There are a range of pruning saws available, and again the most important aspect is to have a saw that is specifically designed for pruning and is fitted with a good, sharp blade.

The second most important aspect of pruning is appropriate timing, and this is based on when the plant flowers. Spring flowering shrubs are those that flower before June 15th. These plants set their flower buds on new growth in the previous growing season, and so they should be pruned soon after they flower. Examples of spring flowering shrubs include lilacs, azaleas, and forsythia. Summer flowering shrubs are those that flower after June 15th and set their flowers on new growth formed during the same season. This group includes chastetree (Vitex), bluebeard (Caryopteris), and crape myrtle and these can be pruned in spring, before flowering.

There are many different methods and techniques of shrub pruning, but most overgrown shrubs can be completely rejuvenated in two to three years. The first step is to remove any dead or crossing shoots; after this, prune out approximately one-third of the oldest shoots at the ground. Remove overhanging branches that shade out the lower portions of the plant and tip-back any leggy young shoots. If you repeat this process for three consecutive years, you will have completely rejuvenated your shrub, with the end result being a more robust, healthier, and floriferous plant.

So start thinking now about which of your shrubs could use some pruning this spring, and don’t worry when it comes time to get started. The beauty of shrubs is that they are a lot like dogs – they are very forgiving and they always come back with enthusiasm.


To learn more about pruning, join one of our upcoming horticulture classes.

Spring Tasks: Lawn Seeding

The last week in March is a good time to over seed bare patches in the lawn.

Tips for getting started:

• Using a garden cultivator or iron rake, scratch the soil surface to provide a seed bed. 
• Sprinkle the seed over the prepared area and gently tamp in the seed using the flat end of the rake.
• For fine lawns use a mix of Kentucky blue grass varieties, for high traffic sunny areas, use the fine leaf forms of tall fescue.
• We prefer not to fertilize lawns in the spring because it induces excessive growth and it can lead to disease problems later in the spring.  If you must fertilize, do so lightly and with a slow release organic form.
• The first mowing of the spring should be short to clean up debris.
• Thereafter, mow high, at lease 2-2 ½ inches to encourage deep roots and a drought resistant lawn.

Spring Tasks: Dividing Perennials

Late March is a good time to divide perennials like Chrysanthemums, daisies, black-eyed susans and Daylilies.

Why divide plants? 
Dividing perennials serves to rejuvenate the mother plant and provides more for your garden and for friends.

How to Divide
    •    
It's important to dig carefully with a digging fork.
    •    Lift and gently shake
   
    •    Using the fork, insert through the center of the clump.
    •    Take a second fork and insert it back to back with the first and pry the clump apart.  For larger clumps repeat.


Replanting
    •    Replant what you need and give a friend the rest!
    •    When replanting, work the soil first and plant at the same level that it was before lifting.

Some perennials like daisies and lambs ear require division every 2-3 years or they loose vigor and decline.

Early Spring Round-up

With the official start of spring just around the corner, it's time to trade the snow shovels for garden spades! Here is our early spring round-up for tips to get you prepared for garden season:

• Start your seeds indoors.
  Our horticulturist, Louise Clarke has some quick tips for getting started. Read more...
• Get to know your site. The best landscapes come to life when plantings match the site's characteristics. Check out this useful video for inspiration. Prefer more hands-on guidance? Learn from an expert at this workshop with former Brooklyn Botanic Garden Horticulture Educator, Charles Mazza.
• Brush up on your pruning skills. We know it can be exciting to see our yards come alive with leaves and new shoots each spring, but before you know it things can get a little, well, Gray Gardens... Learn proper pruning techniques before the bushes get a chance to take over. When purchasing a new plant, ask your nursery how to care for it or take a local workshop like this one on Pruning for the Homeowner.
• Kick it up a notch.
  Already a savvy gardener? Elevate your plant knowledge by taking a botany class. This one on fungi is a great place to start.

Gardeners, start your seeds!

The snow is melting, and even though it's too wet to work in the garden soil, it's time for gardeners to sow seeds indoors. Get a jump start on the growing season by sowing now.  

Before you start, here are some good things to know:

• Our region's (mid-atlantic) last frost date is  approximately May 15, so read your seed packets to determine when to start your seeds. Check the Farmer's Almanac for your region's last frost date.
  
• Some seeds are better sown directly into the soil, like radishes, but many others will appreciate the head start indoors like tomatoes and peppers. Try this handy growing calculator to learn more about timing seeds.
  
• Don't forget seeds are a great way, sometimes the only way, to grow the more unusual vegetables and flowers you won't find at the local garden center or big box store. 
  
• Sowing seeds is a wonderful way to introduce children to the joys of gardening and give them an appreciation of where food comes from.  

Spring is just around the corner, sow get busy!


by Louise D. Clarke, Morris Arboretum horticulturist

3 Steps to Big Beautiful Roses

1. Prune! Now's the time to start pruning your repeat-blooming roses: hybrid teas, floribundas, and modern shrub roses. An easy rule of thumb is "Prune when the forsythia bloom." If you have species or old garden roses, wait until after flowering to prune, or else you'll cut off their spring blooms.
2. Feed After pruning your roses, give them a boost with organic fertilizers. Compost, manure, blood meal, kelp meal, and fish emulsion are just some of the great nutrient sources your roses need for big, beautiful blooms.
3. Deadhead After your roses have started to bloom, keep up on deadheading to keep your repeat-flowering roses looking great and blooming all season long.

Want your roses to be the envy of the neighborhood? 
Join our upcoming class, Rose Pruning Basics, for even more great tips! Register Now

Mulch Matters

Photo: Arnold Winkler 

 by Louise Clarke, Horticulture Section Leader, Bloomfield Farm  

Gravel, river rocks, seashells, tumbled glass, and shredded tires can all been used as mulches, some of which have decorative as well as functional uses. Any material that is applied to the soil’s surface as a covering is considered mulch, but organic mulches are especially beneficial to the garden.

In addition to helping retain soil moisture, controlling erosion, moderating soil temperature and suppressing weed growth, organic mulches such as shredded bark, leaf mold, and pine straw provide the additional benefit of decomposing into soil-enriching humus. Humus builds soil structure and increases its capacity to hold nutrients and water.

With the advent of colored organic mulches, gardeners now have a rainbow of choices. Is colored mulch safe for your family, pets, and plants? That depends. Dyes are typically vegetable or mineral-based and are nontoxic; iron oxide (rust) is used to make red mulch, and carbon black (think charcoal) is used for dark mulch. However, the source of the wood used to manufacture mulch can be more troubling. Wood is recycled to create mulch, but unscrupulous recyclers may grind chromated copper arsenate (CCA) treated wood, which is commonly used to build rot-resistant decks and play equipment. CCA-tainted mulch can leach arsenic, a known carcinogen, into your soil. Hmmm, anyone for arsenic-laced tomatoes?

When buying bagged mulches, look for a certification seal on the bag from the Mulch and Soil Council (MSC). Big box retailers and independent garden centers stock MSC approved mulches. Founded in 1972, the MSC is a national non-profit trade association that has developed product certification programs for potting soils and mulch. See http://www. mulchandsoilcouncil.org/ for more information. Mulches that display the MSC seal have been tested and found free of CCA. There is no risk of CCA contamination if you know that your mulch is sourced from raw lumber. If you employ a landscape contractor who delivers bulk mulch to your property, be sure to ask if they know the source and the components of the mulch being used.

Now that you’ve selected the mulch for your garden beds and trees, are you or your landscape professional applying it correctly? Take a walk in the Arboretum’s Widener Woods to see how Mother Nature mulches; the optimal depth of organic mulch is two to three inches. Excessively thick mulch application results in decreased air circulation and water-logging, which encourages root rot diseases and provides cozy homes for bark-chewing rodents. The ever popular “mulch volcanoes” applied to trees (often seen at apartment complexes and shopping centers) lead to disease and injury which shorten tree life spans. Shrubs that have shallow roots like azaleas and boxwoods, as well as some trees, will grow new roots upward into thick mulches to avoid suffocation, but potentially risk drying out and will decline as mulch decays.

As an integral component of home landscapes, mulch provides beauty and benefits to shrubs and trees when applied and maintained in a responsible fashion. Organic or inorganic, colored or natural, choose and apply wisely for optimal plant health.

Learn more at one of our upcoming Landscape Design classes.

An Unwanted Garden Invader

Phytolacca americana

Over the past couple months you may have noticed a large, shrubby plant with reddish stems and beautiful purple-black berries. What you are seeing is Common Pokeweed, Phytolacca americana. Although I often find it attractive, pokeweed is generally considered an unwanted garden invader.

Pokeweed is a native herbaceous perennial. It can grow one to three meters tall and resembles a small tree. The large, thick stems are smooth and upright, while the leaves are alternate, egg-shaped and pale green. Pokeweed is supported by a large fleshy taproot that persists through the winter after the succulent stems have died back.  Pokeweed flowers are small and white and give way to conspicuous green berries that ripen to a deep purple-black color. Even though the fruit may look tempting, don’t eat it! All parts of the pokeweed plant are poisonous, including the berries.

In natural areas, pokeweed is an important wildlife plant. Berry-eating birds, such as Northern Mockingbirds, American Robins and Cedar Waxwings, load up on pokeweed berries. Many mammals including gray fox, raccoons, and white-footed mice enjoy the fall fruit as well. Both birds and mammals are directly responsible for the spread of pokeweed seeds. Despite pokeweed’s wildlife benefits, it is generally considered a weed in the cultivated landscape. Pokeweed grows very quickly and will shade out desirable bedding plants if it is allowed to grow. In many cases, pokeweed is not an aesthetically pleasing addition to a garden bed.

Pokeweed is fairly easy to control once you have identified it. The plant can be destroyed simply by digging up the taproot with a spade or soil knife. If possible, try to remove plants before they form fruit. Otherwise, the animals in your area will help spread this weed throughout your yard. Although it is probably too late to stop the spread of seeds this year, keep an eye out for new plants in the spring. In the meantime, happy weeding!

Photos by Emma Erler